Shaking the Dust of the Andes off our Hiking Boots

"It is not the going out of port, but the coming in that determines the success of the voyage."

As we travelled home on two more flights, we reflected on our time away and the lessons we would bring home.

We had followed our hearts as we seized the opportunity for adventure and learning. It is through seeing the world that we create ourselves.

We had found a new perspective by observing the night sky from the southern hemisphere and observing life through the lens of the Peruvian people.

We had cultivated a sense of wonder and bowed to the stupendous, barren beauty of the Andes Mountains with their jagged peaks and glistening snow-capped glaciers.

We had been blessed with our guide, Dennis, a proud descendent of the Incas, who breathed life into his ancient past and brought the history alive, as we walked with reverence through Inca ruins.

We had set goals and conquered challenges.

We had climbed mountains which were breathtaking both figuratively and literally.

We had overcome altitude sickness!

We had learned to love and respect our Mother Earth and we had united in the sisterhood of the Pachamama, helping each other, our strong and unique personalities working together in tandem, as we all needed to be carried at one point.

We had danced a frenzied, traditional Highland dance at 4,100 meters.

We had savoured amazingly fresh Peruvian food and attempted to identify the symphony of spices, some of which were completely unrecognizable.

We had eaten alpaca and learned that Guinea Pigs are not just pets!

We had visited museums and churches.

We had faced our fears and developed faith in the human spirit.

We had ascended and descended thousands of steps and felt the energy of a people united in a common purpose.

We had made time to have fun, laughing, giggling, and cracking jokes at the hilarity of our bizarre situations, all the time creating the adventure we desired.

We had been surrounded by nature as we experienced: humid cloud forests, lush with flowers and alive with birds and insects; majestic mountains; rushing rivers; a crashing ocean; the brown barren, sandy desert at Lima; and Lake Titicaca with its unique floating islands.

We had been swarmed by children eager to have a pencil or an eraser and we started to understand the vast differences between our worlds and the injustices of these differences.

We come home, eager to embrace our loved ones and grateful for the peace, order, and good government of our beloved Canada, but it will be a long time before I forget my soulful exchange with the bus wrangler, and the six amigas will never truly shake the dust of the Andes off their hiking boots.

Lifeless in Lima!

The alarm rang at 5:00 a.m. so we could finish packing and transfer to the airport for our flight to Lima. This trip is definitely an adventure not a holiday!

Michel met us at the Lima Airport, where we stored our luggage and backpacks so we could enjoy a city tour. Francisco Pizarro founded Lima, the capital of Peru, in 1535. As our van wound its way through this crowded city, located in the centre of Peru's desert coastline, we were unable to keep our eyes open, although we did try to make sure at least some of us were awake for our tour guide. At one point, she actually told me to pay attention - now I know how my students feel!

We enjoyed the main Plaza de Armas with its bright yellow buildings, the impressive statue of Francisco Pizarro on horseback, and the Moorish influence of the covered wooden balconies - still in tact after disastrous earthquakes. We also visited San Francisco, a Franciscan church and monastery famous for its catacombs. We were led deep underground to this site of an estimated 70,000 burials, where we passed by many bone-filled crypts featuring very artistic displays of femurs, skulls etc. Many of the crypts were not even covered with glass and I suddenly felt very claustrophobic and feared an earthquake would bury me in this Halloween nightmare!

Our next site was Pachacamac, 31 km south of Lima, an important Incan site and major city when the Spanish arrived. It predates the Incas by 1000 years as a ceremonial centre. En route to this ruin, we passed many shanty towns, which lack electricity, water, and adequate sanitation. These very poor people come from other parts of Peru, particularly the highlands, searching for a better life and opportunities for their children. These people often work as street vendors and chances of improving their life are very slim.

We had a free afternoon in Miraflores, one of Lima's most important shopping, entertainment, and residential areas. As we were coming back from our shopping excursion, it was rush hour and the buses were lined up along the street (there are no subways because of the earthquake danger). Each bus had a bus-wrangler who was hanging onto the side of the bus, shouting out destinations. I took note of a wrangler on one of the approaching buses and thought how tired and worn he looked. Was he from one of the neighbouring shanty towns? Was this his way of trying to improve his family's living conditions? How many hours did he work in a day? This wrangler suddenly looked up and our eyes locked. He smiled a little; I smiled a lot; he smiled a lot. This unexpected soulful connection was an unguarded and honest expression of love, concern, and friendship and was one of the most memorable moments of my adventure to Peru. This exchange of smiles and friendship reminded me of Mark Twain's quote, "Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness". How fortunate I am to have had this amazing travel opportunity to grow and learn as a person.

Sacred Valley of the Incas

After breakfast, we departed for our tour to the Sacred Valley, which refers to a broad and gently sloping river plain between Pisac and Ollantaytambo. This valley was a key area of settlement to the Incas because of its combination of agreeable climate and lush plains. The Incas were also attracted to the natural beauty of this area, as the valley is a corridor through glorious mountain landscapes, its fertile floor walled by dark granite cliffs and the gleaming snow peaks of the glaciers.

At the end of the Sacred Valley, we visited Ollantaytambo, another major Inca site. This massive fortress and ceremonial centre is one of the few places where the Spanish lost a major battle during the conquest. The village is built on the traditional Inca foundations and it is the best living example of an Inca street plan. The settlement is laid out in a trapezoid and each block contains a self-contained unit housing many people.

We visited colourful Indian markets where we feverishly haggled for gifts for family and friends back home. We stopped for lunch at a delightful restaurant with more GREAT food. It was here that we thanked our guide, Dennis, for his professionalism, for breathing life into the ancient Inca history and making it come alive for us, for sharing his knowledge of Peru's history and Peru's daily life, for keeping us safe, for laughing with us, for joking with us, and for gracing us with his kind and gentle spirit.

Machu Picchu - Magnificence and Mystery

The alarm rang at 3:00 a.m. and we lept out of bed eager to hike to the "Lost City of the Incas"! Machu Picchu's existance was unknown until 1911 when Hiram Bingham, an American archaeologist stumbled upon it by accident.

A crowd of about 200 congregated around the bottom of the gates and we all waited, somewhat impatiently, to be let it. About 5:00 a.m., the authorities allowed us to begin out one-hour trek straight up the large stone steps leading to the ancient Inca ruin. In the dark sky all you could see were the bobbing of headlamps and the hiker directly in front of you. All you could hear was the eerie, heavy panting of hikers struggling to continue their journey. I was swept along by the energy of this long line of hikers, united together in the common purpose of reaching Machu Picchu before dawn broke over the mountains and it was this energy which gave me the strength and endurance to complete the excursion. Our resolve and fortitude increased as we passed many hikers half our age bent over, trying to catch their breath.

Dawn arrived about two-thirds of the way up and we were graced by a chorus of birds and as I gazed back into the sky, the beauty of the grey-silhouetted Andes. Exhilarated, I entered the Lost City and was struck by the air of grandeur and mystery this ruin still retains. San Dennis let us to a private grassy terrace where the seven of us watched the sun burst forth over the Andes and cast new light on this magnificent scene. For the rest of the day, we toured, explored, and hiked this spectacular archaeological site, revelling in the highlight of our trip.

When time tore us away from Machu Picchu, we returned to Aguas Calientes for another great meal and then caught the train back to Cusco. With the glass ceilings in the train, the panoramic views of the mountains were awe-inspiring. As Peter Frost states in his guidebook, this journey by train from Aguas Calentes to Cusco is without a doubt one of the most spectacular in the world.

Soaking Away Our Aches, Pains, and Dirt

Once again, we woke up to the sounds of cups of coca tea being delivered to our tents. While Dennis went to hire a local bus to take us to Hydro Electric, where we would start our hike for today, we investigated our average mountain village with chickens and dogs running through the dirt streets and people going about their normal Saturday chores. We found the school and interacted with the local children.

When Dennis returned, we loaded our knapsacks on top of the local bus and piled in. This typical Peruvian trip down the mountainside was definitely a Zen moment for me. Sitting in the middle of the second bench seat where there was no seatbelt, I was jostled about while the van was manoeuvred over the dusty, potholed road. I tried to live in the moment - taking in the sounds of the South American Pop Music that was playing on the radio; soaking up the spectacular views of the Andes Mountains and the banana tree leaves stretching over the road and protecting the coffee bean plants; enjoying the sounds of the three Peruvian men sitting in the front as they conversed in Spanish; and just giving myself up to the experience as we wound our way through the spectacular views of the Andes and their peoples.

Arriving in Hydro Electric, we were definitely in the heart of the cloud forest and for the first time we started to sweat while hiking because of the high humidity and heat. Our trek to Aguas Calientes, a quaint, touristy village, was flatter so we could enjoy the colourful flowers (particularly the Bird of Paradise, orchids, and Trumpet flowers that were growing wild along the trail), and the massive white granite formations that rested in the emerald-coloured river reminding us of giant pieces of whipped meringue. Carrie and Linda especially enjoyed crossing the railway trestle bridges with large pieces missing, leaving large gaps for them to hike over while fully loaded with packs!

Upon arriving in Aguas Calientes, we immediately sought out the natural, thermal springs, where we soaked away our aches, pains, and dirt from under our fingernails in the unsurpassed setting of the Andes. While winding our way back down to the village after our spa experience, we happened upon an open cafe with a 'four for one' happy hour! Not about to pass up this opportunity, we enjoyed several cervecas accompanied by fresh, creamy guacamole spiced with hot peppers. After a delightful dinner in another open cafe where we listened to live South American music with panpipes and guitars, we retired early as tomorrow was the day to climb Machu Picchu!

Hiking From Lichen to Lizards

Stephanie and I were awakened at 5:30 when Demetrio brought coca tea to our tent. Stephanie immediately said, "Oh we are getting so spoiled!" A breakfast of porridge and a delicious Spanish omelette was served in our dining tent, where the table was set, complete with a colourful, woven tablecloth and a fresh flower centrepiece. We were quite surprised when we learned that our toothpaste and sunscreen had frozen overnight in this tundra-like ecosystem, where the trees were covered in lichen.

Today we had to make up an extra four hours so we were eager to hit the trail. Luckily we were hiking downhill which would be much easier on our cardiovascular system, but we soon found out hiking downhill was much harder on our muscles.

Our dusty hiking path was about 18" wide and we picked our way over boulders and river rocks like mountain goats. We walked in community with the local people who were carrying goods hither and yon on their donkey trains. Every time a donkey train was spotted, we would scramble to find a safe spot where we would then take off our sunglasses (in order not to scare the horses) and flatten ourselves on the INSIDE of the trail. The passing horses were beautiful as were the dark-eyed, long-lashed Peruvian cowboys with their checkered shirts and wide-brimmed hats.

All day long the Olobamba River crashed below us, fed by mountain streams which we crossed on rickety bridges cobbled together from logs and burlap with small rocks and gravel piled on top.

At one point, the trail narrowed to a 12 inch path of slippery, silken sand and cut its way down a sharp descent along the edge of a deadly precipice - far below, massive boulders and the tumultuous Olobama. I could hardly believe I actually had to hike this trail, but there was no other way. About halfway down, my feet slipped out from beneath me, but my poles kept me from going over. I later realized that I was walking on bald tires; I had worn off the treads of my hiking boots walking the Camino.

Soon thereafter, we entered the beginning of the cloud forest where we saw bamboo forests, delicate wild orchids, sparrow-sized hummingbirds, hundreds of flitting colourful butterflies and we were treated to a symphony of bird songs and cicada hums. Ruth Ann and I even saw a cute, little lizard. After about six hours of hiking, I commented that I was dying for a 'cerveca' and five minutes later, we stumbled into this little mountain residence that was serving...CERVECA!!

Playa, a small village of 35 families, was our final destination. As we entered, Carrie and I started handing out school supplies, a gift to us from many students and teachers at our school, Keatsway. Children, frantic to receive a pencil or an eraser, soon swarmed us. Carrie and I had to work as a team and use our best teacher organizational skills to bring a sense of order to the chaos and ensure a "somewhat" fair distribution.

Janet had been waiting eagerly for this village, as San Dennis had promised her a 'normal' toilet. Much to Janet's dismay, the toilet was far from normal. There was simply a hole in the ground with spots for your feet, which were really just a suggestion, as they did not work for tall people. The door did not lock so you had to hold it shut with your head and there was a small bucket of water for 'clearing out your business". We did have to explain to our guide, Dennis, that a 'normal' toilet for us would entail some sort of white porcelain with a handle, chain, or even a button!

That night we fell into an exhausted sleep and despite the misinformed rooster that started crowing at 2:30 a.m., the bunch of horses that plodded by our tent early in the morning, the dogs barking, and chickens pecking at our tent, we had a great sleep...thanks to our invaluable earplugs!

Brave Hearts

The six amigas were actually eager to get up at 4:00 a.m. because at long last we were starting our journey to Machu Picchu. San Dennis picked us up and we were relieved to see a new driver, Mr. Wilbur. Now Mr. Wilbur is a very serious man and we would be very thankful for that quality. On the way to Soriypampa, we picked up our cook, Demetrio, and assistant cook, Marcelino. About 7:00 we stopped for breakfast and our three Highlanders promptly ordered beef and rice. Not being able to stomach a huge breakfast that early in the morning, we had the other option - a white bun with honey. The diffused Peruvian coffee certainly woke us up.

The Andes were towering on both sides of the road and we started up the mountain leading to the stunningly beautiful Salkantay Glacier. The ride to Soriypampa was definitely a white-knuckle ride, even with our serious Mr. Wilbur. The switchbacks zigzagged up the mountainside and Mr. Wilbur manoeuvered us along the pot-holed road, our van teetering precariously on the edge of nothing. Some of us were able to enjoy the spectacular views and some of us kept our eyes glued to the mud walls of the Andes to maintain sanity.

At the end of the road, we met up with our two horsemen, one emergency horse and five donkeys. What an amazing scene - the sun beaming down, the Salkantay Glacier beckoning, the blue sky framing the Andes, the donkeys and crew already trodding up the narrow, dusty path, and the ascent to the Salkantay Pass looming before the six chicas. In five kilometres we had to ascend from 3800 metres to 4600 metres. As we started up this formidable climb, we began to wonder why we had signed up for this trip and I am sure our guide began to wonder as well.

Within the first 100 metres, our hearts were pounding and we were struggling for air. Altitude was still a problem. San Dennis told us the secret to hiking the Andes was to pick a slow pace and just keep going. I tried to focus on his words but I had never experienced such heavy legs and I could hardly lift them off the ground. Each step took all my concentration: one foot in front of the other, up, up, up. We tried to set small goals as motivators - 20 steps before stopping, make it to the next curve, go until absolutely out of breath. Even though we were throwing up and suffering from headaches and exhaustion, we realized there was no turning back. We finally arrived at the highest altitude of our journey - 4600 metres! Here we celebrated in the traditional way, by communally creating a small stone monument, similar to an Inukshuk.

That first day we hiked 14 kilometres in 7 1/2 hours. We did not get lunch until 6:00 p.m. (we were certainly wishing by then that we had taken the full meal option at breakfast as the white bun and snack were long gone). Kathy and Carrie, overcome by the exertion could not even eat lunch. Dinner was then served at 7:30 and everyone quickly gobbled down Demetrio´s tasty dishes.

Because we had not reached our final destination for the day, we had to set up emergency camp in the Highlands, where it was quite cold. We were fairly warm, although it took several layers of clothing to make this happen - Janet wore long johns and three pairs of pants! Our two-women tents were cozy and very comfortable, allowing us to drift off into a deep sleep.