Climbing to Great Heights

Today was a day of climbing to great heights both physically and spiritually. The ¨seis amigas¨ were excited and slightly anxious because of our homestay. Our guide was a little late so we were rushed off to Puno Port where we quickly bought gifts for our hosts: school supplies (many of which we had brought from home), rice, quinoa, noodles, sugar, candles, and of course our water...two 2-litre bottles each.

Our first stop on Lake Titcaca was on one of the 60 floating islands of Uros where the Aymara people welcomed us with open arms. The lives of these people are totally interwoven with the tortoro reed, which grows abundantly in Lake Titicaca. To create these islands, they dive under water and cut blocks of the roots which they then fasten together with synthetic rope. This versitile root is also used as homes, food, and for medicinal purposes.

An Aymara woman ushered Carrie, Fiona, and me into her reed house where she explained her way of life. Haggling for needlework amused us until our group of 22, known as the happy group led by Angel, was invited to board one of their reed boats. Carrie, Stephanie, Linda, and I all flexed our Canadian muscle and took turns paddling the boat toward the next floating island. Before we pulled away from the island, we were so endeared to the women who serenaded us with songs in Quecua, Aymari, French, Spanish, and English (Row, Row, Row Your Boat). That was until one of them later chased us down in a motor boat because she thought Ruth Ann had stolen a cushion cover. After a few tense moments, we were allowed to continue on our way.

After a brief stay at this island, we boarded our larger boat and Angel announced we would be having a three hour cruise to the Island of Amantani, at which point the Canadian chicas broke into a rousing rendition of the Gilligan Island theme song. During this cruise, we had an opportunity to chat with the other passengers. We docked at Isla Amantini where we met our host family and were excited when Angel called for the ¨Seis Amigas¨. Our host mama stepped forward to greet ALL of us. We then began the arduous journey up the mountain, carrying our heavily-laden packs with all our belongings, our school supplies, our gifts of food, and of course our ¨blankety blank¨ four litres of water we had been told to buy. This trek was one of the most difficult physical challenges of my life - second only to labour. At an altitude of 4,000 meters we plodded up the steep mountain under our cumbersome load, only gaining a few steps before we had to stop - gasping for air, stripping off layers of clothing, hearts pounding, swearing at our water, and wondering how long this labour would go on. It was at this point, the sisterhood united and decided we would rent donkeys to ride to the top of Machu Picchu!

Our afternoon event was a hike to view the sunset at the ruins of Pachamama and Pachatata (Mother Earth and Father Earth), which date back to the Tiahuanaco culture 10,000 BC. In this culture, the mother is the most revered as she is the upholder of life and therefore the Pachamama is always a higher point than the Pachatata. When faced with the choice of which hike to take, it did not take long for the sisterhood to decide which hike we were taking - we were all mamas and we were hiking to Pachamama regardless of the suffering involved.

The energy of this special place pulled us along the winding trail past lacey rock walls and stone arches dating back to ancient civilization. Our anticipation and excitement grew as we approached the summit. Finally Pachamama birthed us into this mystical realm where body and soul came together with the spirit of the mountain and the spirit of the sea, as the sun (so revered by the Incas) cast its brilliance over this world. I cried. I cried for the beauty of the nature around me, for the touch of the divine, but mostly I cried for Stephanie who was so deeply moved by this special place, Pachamama.

Later that evening we were adorned in the traditional costume of the Aymara women in order to attend the fiesta held in our honour. Here we engaged in a frenzied cultural dance with the local people and yes these chicas can now proclaim, ¨We have danced at 4,000 meters!!¨